Fred Perry

May 20, 2024

Fred Perry | A Fashion Icon Interwoven with UK Subculture

Fred Perry, the iconic British fashion brand, was founded in 1952 by triple Wimbledon tennis champion Fred Perry and Austrian footballer Tibby Wegner. Originally conceived as a sportswear brand, Fred Perry’s eponymous label swiftly transcended its athletic origins to become a symbol of style and identity for various subcultures in the UK.

Chelsea Leeds United Chelsea book. And Now Are You Going To Believe Us: John Ingledew — Chelsea fan in Fred Perry, 1984. © John Ingledew

Historical Roots

Fred Perry, a celebrated tennis player known for his charisma and grit, collaborated with Wegner to create a sweatband, the first product to bear the Fred Perry name. The success of this initial venture led to the creation of the classic Fred Perry polo shirt in 1952, a design that has remained largely unchanged since its inception. The white polo with its signature laurel wreath logo, inspired by Wimbledon, became an instant hit both on and off the court.

Subculture and Significance

Mods and the 1960s

The brand’s journey into subcultural prominence began in the 1960s with the mod movement. Mods, characterised by their sharp fashion sense and affinity for modern jazz, R&B, and soul music, adopted the Fred Perry polo shirt as a key component of their look. The simplicity, elegance, and athletic fit of the polo complemented the mod’s love for tailored clothing, making it a staple in their wardrobes. The laurel wreath logo became a badge of honour, signifying membership in a stylish and youthful elite.

Skinheads and the 1970s

By the late 1960s and into the 1970s, the Fred Perry brand had been embraced by the skinhead subculture. Skinheads, originally influenced by mod fashion and Jamaican rude boy style, adopted the Fred Perry polo for its durability and straightforward design. The shirt became synonymous with the working-class pride and the anti-establishment ethos that defined the skinhead movement. Despite the various political connotations that emerged within the skinhead culture, the Fred Perry shirt remained a unifying piece of attire.

Punk and the 1980s

As the punk movement exploded in the late 1970s and early 1980s, the Fred Perry brand found a new audience. Punks, known for their DIY fashion and rebellious attitudes, integrated Fred Perry polos into their eclectic wardrobes. The shirts, often paired with ripped jeans, leather jackets, and Doc Martens, added an element of British heritage to the punk uniform, bridging the gap between mainstream fashion and counterculture style.

Football Fans and the Casual Movement

In the late 1970s and 1980s, Fred Perry also became integral to the casual subculture among football fans. Football Casuals, known for their meticulous attention to fashion and brand-conscious style, sought out exclusive and stylish sportswear to distinguish themselves from other fans. The Fred Perry polo, with its clean lines and recognisable logo, fit perfectly into the casual aesthetic, becoming a matchday favourite. Wearing Fred Perry was not just about style; it was about identity and allegiance, whether on the terraces or the streets.

Portsmouth Football Club Fans, Supporters and Casuals. The Pompey Boys — Pompey Casuals wearing Fred Perry, circa 1980s © John Payne

During the same era, some Football Casuals became known as ‘Perry Boys,’, particularly around Manchester and Salford. Named for their penchant for Fred Perry polo shirts, Perry Boys were characterised by their sharp, brand-conscious fashion sense, which included designer sportswear and exclusive clothing labels. The Perry Boys’ sartorial choices were not just about fashion but also served as a means of identification and differentiation within the football terraces, blending a love for the sport with a distinct, sophisticated aesthetic.

Modern Day Relevance

Today, Fred Perry continues to hold a significant place in both fashion and subcultural spheres. The brand’s collaborations with various designers and musicians have kept it relevant, while its classic designs ensure its timeless appeal. Fred Perry’s ability to transcend its sportswear origins and embed itself into the fabric of British subcultures is a testament to its versatile and enduring allure.

From the tennis courts of the 1950s to the streets of modern Britain, Fred Perry remains an emblem of style, identity, and cultural significance. Its laurel wreath logo is more than just a mark of quality; it is a symbol of the diverse and rich subcultural history that continues to shape and define the British fashion landscape.