Paninaro | How Italian Style and UK Football Culture Collided in the 1980s

May 13, 2024

In the 1980s, Italy’s urban fashion scene witnessed the emergence of a subculture that would soon captivate the youth across Europe – the Paninaro phenomenon. Derived from the Italian word “panino,” meaning sandwich, this subculture centred around a love for American-style fast food and designer clothing, particularly the clothing lines of Fiorucci and Stone Island. While it originated in Italy, its influence quickly spread, finding a unique connection with UK football culture.

EFL. — Stone Island can be prominently seen on football terraces around the UK. © James Bowskill

Portsmouth FC fans (1983) Photographed by Jake Payne — Sergio Tacchini, Lacoste, Pringle and Fila seen on Pompey Fans during the 80s football casuals scene. © Jake Payne

Paninaro emerged from the streets of Milan in the early 1980s, initially fuelled by the city’s football supporters, particularly those of AC Milan. Gatherings at the Al Panino sandwich bar in Piazza Liberty became the epicenter of this burgeoning movement, where fans donned a fusion of European designer labels and iconic American staples. Coined by a journalist, the term “Paninari” humorously encapsulated their shared enthusiasm for sandwiches. Over time, however, the focus shifted from football allegiance to a dedication to sartorial excellence and affluence. Piazza San Babila, home to the Burghy Burger Bar, became the new hub of Paninaro activity, igniting a nationwide craze fueled by images of stylish youths that permeated Italy.

The Paninaro aesthetic was a blend of sportswear and high-end fashion, characterised by bold colours, oversized jackets, and logo-centric apparel. The movement’s adherents were often seen congregating at fast-food joints, sporting their coveted garments and discussing the latest fashion trends. Their look was a deliberate departure from the prevailing punk and new wave styles of the time, embracing consumerism and materialism in a way that was both rebellious and aspirational.

The connection between Paninaro and UK football culture was forged through the shared values of tribalism, identity, and a sense of belonging. Football in the UK has long been more than just a sport; it’s a cultural institution that unites communities and fosters a sense of camaraderie among fans. Similarly, the Paninaro subculture offered its members a sense of belonging and camaraderie, albeit centred around fashion rather than football.

Many football fans adopted the Paninaro style as a way to express their allegiance to their favorite teams. This was particularly evident in the casual culture of UK football fandom, where supporters would don designer clothing to stand out in the terraces and assert their affiliation with their club. The parallels between the two cultures were unmistakable – both celebrated individuality within a collective identity, whether it be through fashion or football.

Despite its brief heyday, the Paninaro phenomenon left an indelible mark on European youth culture, influencing fashion, music, and art for years to come. Its connection to UK football culture serves as a reminder of the diverse influences that shape our identities and the myriad ways in which we express them.

10 brands closely associated with the Paninaro subculture: